As it appears on northforker.com
by Doug Young on April 27th, 2026
Spring on the North Fork usually conjures images of asparagus tips and blossoming apple trees, but if you ask Sarah Phillips Loth, owner of Greenport’s community mainstay First and South, the real treasure is still shivering in the chilly Cutchogue waters.
Named for John D. Rockefeller, the wealthiest man at the time of the dish’s invention in 1899, Oysters Rockefeller a la First and South is a far cry from the sometimes soggy, spinach-heavy versions of yesteryear. It’s a Pernod liqueur-splashed, garlic-cream-soaked masterpiece that feels as at home enjoyed at a black-tie gala as it does served on newspaper at a dockside gathering.
It’s an approach that mirrors a sentiment Loth holds fast to: “We’re not doing anything that no one else has done before; we’re just doing it our way.” At First and South, the invitation to guests has always been to “find your way.” In this case, that path leads to a recipe born in 2019 during a McCall Wines tasting, designed to pair with the Cutchogue-based vineyards’ crisp rosé or a Sancerre-style sauvignon blanc. While traditionalists might cling to the classic, the restaurant’s version swaps the greenery for a decadent Pernod-kissed garlic cream sauce, finished with a hit of Parmesan and—here’s the kicker—goat cheese, which complements the herbal liqueur and adds rich, tangy depth.
While the restaurant rotates its selection based on the daily haul, a First and South favorite for this preparation has always been Matt Ketcham’s Peconic Golds. Matt has been a cornerstone of the local aquaculture scene for years, perfecting a bivalve known for its trademark deep cup and distinct golden shell. These aren’t just oysters; they are the heavyweight champions of the local waters—fat, juicy and brimming with enough briny liquor to stand up to a heavy cream sauce.
“Matt was one of the first oystermen to come here and sell us his wares,” Loth recalls. “He is so dedicated to the practice. He tumbles those oysters beautifully, so you’re picking up a full product directly from the farmer.”
If you want to play along at home, swing by Peconic Gold Oysters’ self-serve farmstand on Sound Avenue. It’s a quintessential North Fork “pullover”—protected from the weather, stocked with fresh-harvested golds, and updated for the modern age with a Venmo barcode on the honor box. Grab a dozen (or three), tip your farmer via the app, and head back to the kitchen.
As the April breezes start to warm the docks, don’t rush into summer salads just yet. Grab a bottle of McCall Marjorie’s Rosé, a bag of Peconic Golds, and channel your inner Greenporter. After all, as Loth reminds us, sometimes the best way to move forward is to take a classic recipe and simply … find your way.
TIPS FOR THE HOME COOK
Size Matters: When sourcing for Rockefeller, always choose the larger, “fat” oysters. You want maximum meat and liquor to balance the richness of the garlic cream and cheese.
The Pernod Factor: Be patient during the deglazing process. Ensure the alcohol burns off properly, revealing the sweet, herbal essence of the liqueur rather than a harsh boozy bite.
Plan for the Future: Follow First and South’s lead when feeding a crowd—prepare your cream sauce, shuck your oysters and dress them in advance. You can actually freeze prepped oysters on a sheet tray and stack them in the freezer. When guests arrive, you’re only minutes away from a fresh, hot appetizer. Simply bake at 400°F and a few more minutes to the cooking time below, or until the internal temperature reaches 145°F.
First and South’s Peconic Gold Oysters Rockefeller
Serves 4 appetizer portions
Prep time 30 minutes
Cook time 15 minutes
12 large Peconic Gold oysters
1 tbsp vegetable oil
2 tbsp minced shallots
1 tbsp minced garlic
1/4 cup Pernod (or other anise-flavored liqueur)
1/4 cup clam juice
1 cup heavy cream
2 tbsp unsalted butter, cubed
1 cup fresh spinach, chiffonade
2 tbsp celery hearts and leaves, finely minced
1 tsp fresh herb mix (tarragon, chives, parsley)
1/2 lemon, zested and juiced
Salt and cracked black pepper to taste
FOR THE TOPPING
1/4 cup gluten-free panko breadcrumbs
2 oz fresh goat cheese, crumbled
2 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese
Rock salt (for the baking sheet)
Fresh chives for garnish1. Preheat oven to 450°F.
2. Shuck the oysters, keeping as much of the natural liquor in the shell as possible. Set aside on a chilled surface.
3. In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, add the vegetable oil and sweat the shallots and garlic until translucent and fragrant, but not browned.
4. Pour in the Pernod, scraping any bits from the bottom of the pan. Let it simmer for 2 minutes, then add the clam juice and heavy cream.
5. Bring to a gentle simmer and reduce the liquid by half until it coats the back of a spoon.
6. Remove from heat. Stir in the cubed butter, spinach, celery, herbs, lemon juice and zest. The residual heat will wilt the greens. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Let the mixture cool slightly.
7. In a small bowl, mix the crumbled goat cheese and grated Parmesan.
8. Line a baking sheet with a thick layer of rock salt to keep the shells steady. Place the shucked oysters on the salt.
9. Add one heaping tablespoon of the cooled cream filling to each raw oyster. Sprinkle a light layer of gluten-free panko over the sauce, then top with a dollop of the cheese mixture.
10. Bake the oysters for 7–8 minutes until the cheese is golden brown.
11. Garnish with fresh chopped chives and serve immediately while piping hot.
